Preparing for Mt. McKinley Part 1

In '85 & '86, while training for Mt. McKinley, Wayne needed to get ready for the Mexican Volcano trip, which was a guided trip scheduled for November of '85; it proved to be a good altitude test for Wayne (see Mexico->Popo climb). During this time, a winter climb of Mt. Adams was also on the horizon (see Washington->Mt. Adams '85). The goal was to test the prototype expedition sled. And experience cold weather conditions. Wayne also knew of some places in the Olympic Mountains that provided a nice amount of elevation gain, and would be good conditioning hikes. These hikes included the Mildred Lakes trail, Wagon Wheel Lake trail, Mt. Rose Trail and Lena Lake/Brothers trail. Mt. Si is close to Seattle, so it was used as a conditioning hike also. Snow training was done at Paradise (Mt. Rainier), Snoqualmie Pass (Commonwealth Basin) and Mt Hood. On 6 Apr. '86, Jerry and Wayne made a summit attempt on Mt. Rainier via the Ingraham Direct route; we stayed overnight at the Camp Muir Climber's Hut that is open to the public. Early in the morning, Wayne put a plastic climbing boot on prior to the climb, and felt something "squishy' under his foot. He took his foot out, and a nervous mouse hurried out of the boot. During our summit attempt, there was another climbing team of two on this route also. We turned around at ~12,500' elevation because we didn't like the snow conditions. The other team turned around also. On 19 & 20 Apr. '86, Dudley, Jerry, Phil and Wayne took the expedition sleds (w/ 40 lbs weight on each sled) from Paradise to Panarama Point (Mt. Rainier). The next day we hiked to Camp Muir w/out the sled.  On 3 & 4 May '86, Dudley, Jerry & Wayne took the sleds to ~9,000' on Mt. Hood. When we were setting up camp, a storm blew in w/ 50 mph winds--we managed to set the tents up in spite of the wind. The weather conditions prohibited a summit attempt the following morning. However, we gained confidence in the JanSport tents. I beleive these JanSport tents originally belonged to the Ultima Thule Everest expedition. We bought a backup set of poles also. We purchased the Paris expedition sleds from REI. Dudley provided/operated the tools to attach the "tie down anchors" to each sled.

Note: Part 2 of this set of slides can be found at Sitemap->States(US)->Washington->Preparing for McKinley Part 2.

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