Preparing for Mt. McKinley Part 2

   In March, 1986, when we were preparing for Mt. McKinley, Erich sent us a notice about an "Expedition Planning Seminar" that would be held at the Wilderness Sports store in Bellevue, WA on 26 March 1986 in the evening. Erich said we should call the phone number in order to reserve a seat for each person attending the seminar. I (Wayne) called the number Erich provided in advance of the scheduled date to reserve a spot for myself. That evening I got there at least 15 minutes early...

   Nancy and her friend (see Reference 1) gave the seminar. They passed out a 7 page handout that contained, at least in part, Reference 2 through 6. During the seminar they recommended reference 7...

   They then lowered the lights and presented a wonderful slide show of their successful climb of Mt. McKinley a few years prior...During the slide presentation, Nancy raved about a small snow shovel that has a red handle. They gave tips on a variety of equipment one can bring on this type of an expedition. They said snow pickets can be used for tent anchors or crevasse rescue. 

   They recommended staying roped up all of the time on Mt. McKinley glaciers [except in camp, after probing for crevasses]. Nancy explained she saw a Mt. McKinley climbing team do something that was upsetting to her. She saw a __________ [non US] team that was involved in a climbing accident. Their team leader had been walking un-roped when he fell into a deep crevasse. Nancy said that team did not show much grief after their fellow climber perished; and she was disappointed in their overall attitude and behavior. During the slide show it was very apparent that Nancy had the courage to speak up if she saw something happen she believed was wrong.

   They provided us with valuable information regarding what to expect on summit day. We were glad to be part of this seminar.

Note 1: Part 1 of this set of slides can be found at Sitemap->States(US)->Washington->Preparing for McKinley Part 1.

Note 2: Part 1 of Mt. McKinley '86 climbing photos can be found at Sitemap->States(US)->Alaska->McKinley (W. Buttress) - '86 (Part 1).

Note 3: Photos from the relevant '89 New Zealand trip can be found at Sitemap->New Zealand.


1. Expedition Climbing Seminar, by Nancy Jackson and _________, 26 March 1986

2. Planning an Expedition, by Alan Ewert, Off Belay Magazine, Oct. 1978

3. Update On Nutrition for Mountaineers, by Carol Peters, Summit Magazine, Nov./Dec. 1985

4. Brief paragraph on carbon monoxide from stoves, source: unknown

5. Migraine and Altitude Headache, by Charles Houston, Summit Magazine, Nov./Dec. 1985

6. Summary of Research on Effect of Diet on Skier Energy Levels at High Altitude, by Cheryl DiCarlo, source: Unknown

7. Mt. McKinley Climber's Handbook, by Glenn Randall

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