Bonanza Peak (Mary Green Glacier route) - July '87

On July 3, 1987, Erich, John and I (Wayne) set out on a 3 day trip to do an ascent of Bonanza Peak.  From Wayne's "outdoor journal": We left Issaquah Park & Ride at ~4:30 am. We had breakfast at the "Big Y" restaurant. We then headed toward Lake Chelan (Field's Point), which we reached at 9:30 am. We were on the Tour Boat at 10:00 am; our round trip ticket was $15. It was a 2 hour boat ride to Lucerne. We loaded onto a school bus, and rode to Holden; the round trip ticket was $6. We saw a cinnamon colored black bear along the road at 12:45 pm. The bus ride took a half hour. We started backpacking at 2:30 pm. We were disappointed that it was raining. It took us 2 hours to hike to Holden L. We took a half hour break at the Lake. It took another 1 and 1/2 hours to hike to Holden Pass. We found a nice camp site at 6:30, so we took it. A forked horn buck and doe came through camp.

   The next morning (July 4th) we got up at 5:00 am to clear skies. We started hiking at 6:15 am. It took an hour to reach the glacier and rope up. We reached the base of the rock at 9:00 am. We unroped, and started up the 800 ft rock section at 9:30 am. We found this section to be class 3, with some class 4. We reached the summit at 12:15 pm. We found Al and Pat on the summit also. We noticed some low clouds moving in from the West; and some high clouds also. We started down at 1:00 pm. We used some rappel anchors that were in place. We used my 120 ft rope. We did a double rope rappel at the class 4 section, by teaming up with a group ahead of us, We got to the base of the rock at 3:00 pm. It started snowing slightly at this time. We saw a party descending just above us. Note 1: The guide book (Reference 1) mentioned one should be careful due to potential rockfall.  We didn't encounter any rockfall on this day.

   We roped up and started descending the glacier. Bonanza Peak became covered with clouds. A lightning storm was soon overhead, and it started to rain as we descended the glacier. By the time we reached the low part of the glacier it was raining hard. We got back to camp at 5:15 pm. We discovered that one end of our tent was in 2" of water. Fortunately, the tent didn't leak. We were able to drain the puddle from under the tent. Because Erich had a bivy bag, and it was raining, John and I allowed Erich to share the 2 and 1/2 person tent with us. The Early Winters Superlight Omnipotent worked better than I expected with 3 people in it.

   On July 5th, we got up at 7:00 am. It was still raining off and on. We were hiking out by 9:00. We took a break at Holden L. We reached Holden at 11:30. At 2:00 we took the bus back to Lucerne. The "Lady of the Lake" boat picked us up at 3:00 pm. We reached Field's Point at 5:00 pm. We got back to Seattle at 9:30 pm. Note 2: The following photos are in order as I took them.


1. Cascade Alpine Guide Climbing and High Routes Vol. 2: Stevens Pass to Rainy Pass, by Fred Beckey

© Wayne's Beach House site 2011